The homeowner in Siesta Key had already called three deck companies. Each one walked the gray, weathered boards, poked at a few spots, and recommended full replacement. Estimates ranged from $12,000 to $18,000.
We walked the same deck. Same gray boards, same rough surface, same neglected appearance that suggested the worst. But when we actually tested the structure - pressing a screwdriver into joists, posts, and beams - we found solid wood throughout. The deck looked terrible but was structurally sound.
Three days of restoration work later, that deck looked like new construction. Total cost: under $3,000. It's been four years now, and it still looks great with annual maintenance.
That gray, splintering deck you've been avoiding doesn't necessarily need replacement. Florida's intense sun, humidity, and rain take a heavy toll on surfaces, but surface damage is different from structural failure. Proper restoration can bring most neglected decks back to beautiful, functional condition at a fraction of replacement cost.
Knowing What You're Working With
The screwdriver test tells you almost everything you need to know. Press a screwdriver firmly into deck boards, joists, and posts. If it penetrates easily - more than a quarter inch with moderate pressure - the wood has rot and may need replacement. If the screwdriver meets solid resistance, you're dealing with surface weathering that restoration can address.
Test multiple locations, especially anywhere that stays wet or touches the ground. The ledger board where your deck attaches to the house is critical - check for any pulling away or soft spots. Joists underneath the deck reveal structural truth. Posts at ground level fail first because moisture wicks up from soil. Look for sagging, cracks, and separation in beams.
Surface boards can look awful while remaining structurally fine. Gray weathering comes from UV damage to the wood surface - it's cosmetic. Rough, splintery texture means the protective finish has failed and weathering has raised wood fibers - also cosmetic. Minor checking (small surface cracks along the grain) is normal wood aging. Even cupped boards often flatten when properly cleaned and stained.
The decision point is straightforward. Restore when structure passes the screwdriver test, less than 20-30% of boards need replacement, the frame and joists are sound, the deck is less than fifteen to twenty years old, and budget is a consideration. Replace when structural damage is present, more than half the boards are damaged, the ledger board is compromised, the frame shows extensive rot, or restoration would cost more than half of replacement.
The Restoration Process
Professional restoration happens in stages, each one building on the last.
Deep cleaning comes first. We pre-rinse to remove loose debris, apply deck cleaner to break down grime and mold, let it dwell for ten to fifteen minutes, then pressure wash at controlled pressure - typically 1200 to 1500 PSI - to remove old finish and gray fibers. The final rinse removes all residue. Pressure washing technique matters enormously: too high damages wood, too close gouges the surface. We keep the nozzle six to twelve inches from the surface, work with the wood grain, and use a fan tip rather than a point.
Wood brightening follows cleaning. The cleaning process and natural oxidation darken wood, and brighteners restore the natural tone while opening pores for stain absorption. We apply an oxalic acid-based brightener, scrub it into the surface, let it dwell ten to fifteen minutes, then rinse thoroughly. After that, the deck needs to dry completely - usually 24 to 48 hours depending on humidity.
Repairs happen during the drying period. Boards with rot or severe damage get replaced with matching wood. Loose boards get refastened with deck screws. Popped nails get removed and replaced with screws. We seal exposed end grain with wood preservative. Wobbly railings get tightened with new hardware. Most gaps between boards get left alone - they're there for drainage.
Sanding isn't always necessary, but when it is, it makes a dramatic difference. Slightly rough decks get a light scuff sand with 80 to 100 grit. Very rough or splintery surfaces need full sanding starting with 60-80 grit and finishing at 100. Decks with paint buildup require heavy sanding starting at 40-60 grit and working finer. Sanding removes raised wood fibers, creates a smooth walking surface, improves stain absorption, and eliminates splinters.
Staining is the final step. The choice of stain depends on the wood's condition after preparation. Semi-transparent stains show the grain and work best on good-condition wood. Semi-solid stains offer partial coverage and work well for moderate weathering. Solid stains hide imperfections completely but look more like paint than stained wood. We apply in sections, maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks, back-brush for penetration, and typically apply two coats for full protection.
Florida's Special Challenges
Mold and mildew are facts of life here. Our year-round warmth promotes growth, high humidity never lets up, and shaded areas are especially prone. Any deck restoration in Florida requires aggressive mold treatment, not just cleaning. We apply mold killer (not just cleaner), allow proper kill time, scrub affected areas, pressure wash, and then use stain containing mildewcide for ongoing protection.
Sun damage happens faster in Florida than anywhere in the northern half of the country. Decks gray more quickly, weathering goes deeper in exposed areas, and you end up with uneven aging where some sections get sun and others don't. Addressing severe sun damage often requires deeper cleaning, more aggressive sanding, and higher-pigment stains like semi-solid or solid formulas.
Previous coating removal complicates many restoration projects. Penetrating stains that have simply worn away can usually be cleaned and recoated. Film-forming stains that are peeling require complete stripping. Paint - any peeling paint - has to come off entirely. Clear sealers that have worn need cleaning before restaining. Stripping methods include chemical strippers for heavy buildup, pressure washing for light coatings, sanding for small areas, and usually a combination for thoroughness.
What Restoration Actually Costs
The range depends on what your deck needs. Basic cleaning plus stain runs $3 to $5 per square foot - that's $1,200 to $2,000 for a 400 square foot deck. Deep cleaning with brightening and stain runs $4 to $6 per square foot, or $1,600 to $2,400. Add sanding and you're at $5 to $8 per square foot, or $2,000 to $3,200. Stripping plus full restoration runs $7 to $12 per square foot, or $2,800 to $4,800.
Additional costs add up when needed. Board replacement runs $15 to $40 per board depending on size and wood type. Railing restoration adds $3 to $6 per linear foot. Stair restoration runs $15 to $30 per step. Heavy mold treatment adds $100 to $200 to any project. Complete stripping of old finishes can add 50-100% to base costs.
Compare these to replacement: a 400 square foot deck replacement runs $8,000 to $16,000 or more depending on materials and complexity. Even comprehensive restoration at $4,000 costs 25-40% of replacement and extends deck life five to ten years.
DIY vs Professional Work
Some restoration work suits DIY capability. Basic cleaning with a rented pressure washer, light brightening, simple stain application, and minor repairs are all manageable for handy homeowners. You'll need pressure washer access, two to three full days minimum, physical ability to handle the work, and weather flexibility.
Professional work makes sense for significant weathering, stripping requirements, sanding needs, multiple repairs, premium finish expectations, and time constraints. What professionals bring: proper equipment that delivers better and faster results, experience that avoids common mistakes, access to professional-grade stains, warranty protection if issues arise, and completion in one to two days instead of a weekend.
Timing Your Project
Florida's seasons favor some approaches over others. Winter from December through February brings dry conditions and moderate temperatures - excellent for deck work. Spring offers some rain but warm weather - still good. Summer's daily afternoon storms and intense heat make deck work challenging - possible but not ideal. Fall provides transitional weather that works well for most projects.
Book two to four weeks ahead, allow flexibility for weather, and avoid deadline pressure. Winter and early spring are premium scheduling times when availability fills faster.
A typical restoration timeline: Day one for cleaning and brightening. Day two for drying and repairs. Day three for sanding if needed. Day four for the first stain coat. Day five for the second coat and cure time. Minimum dry times between stages: 24-48 hours after cleaning, 24 hours after brightening, four to 24 hours between stain coats depending on product.
Maintaining Your Restored Deck
First year care protects your investment. Wait for full cure time before placing furniture. Clean debris regularly. Treat mold spots immediately when you see them. Avoid dragging objects across the surface. Use furniture pads under anything heavy.
Ongoing maintenance is simple: sweep or blow debris weekly, wash monthly to prevent buildup, inspect seasonally to catch issues early, and deep clean annually to maintain appearance. Plan for restaining every two to three years - it's dramatically cheaper than restoration.
What to Expect Realistically
Restoration can restore natural color, create a smooth surface, eliminate gray weathering, protect from further damage, and make an unusable deck enjoyable again.
Restoration cannot fix structural problems, reverse severe rot, make old wood new, or last forever without ongoing maintenance.
Signs of quality restoration work: even color throughout, smooth splinter-free surface, no missed spots, proper penetration without pooling, and clean edges and details.
Get Your Deck Assessed
Not sure if your Sarasota deck can be restored? Our deck restoration specialists provide free condition assessments with honest restore-vs-replace advice.
Schedule your assessment and find out what's actually possible for your deck.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can an old weathered deck be restored?
Most weathered decks can be restored if the structure is sound. Gray, faded, and rough decks respond well to proper cleaning, brightening, sanding, and staining. However, decks with significant rot, structural damage, or boards that fail the screwdriver test may need partial or full replacement. A professional assessment determines the best approach.
How much does deck restoration cost in Florida?
Deck restoration in Sarasota typically costs $5-10 per square foot, or $1,500-3,500 for an average 300-400 sq ft deck. This includes deep cleaning, wood brightening, repairs, sanding if needed, and premium stain application. Costs increase with extensive damage, board replacement, or complete stripping of old finishes.
Is it better to restore or replace an old deck?
Restore if the structure is sound, less than 50% of boards need replacement, and the frame shows no rot. Replace if there's structural damage, widespread rot, the deck is 20+ years old, or restoration costs exceed 50% of replacement cost. In Florida's climate, well-maintained decks can last 15-25 years before replacement.